Several years ago the question arose of buying a wireless mouse. It was needed for normal everyday work at the computer, i.e. not for toys. After surfing the Internet, the choice was made in favor of the Logitech Anywhere Mouse MX Black USB.
What can I say... the mouse turned out to be very worthy: a stylish body, fits well in the hand, and glides easily on any surface. The weight of the mouse is quite comfortable - it is pleasantly heavy. Power is supplied from two AA batteries. When using Duracell as batteries, they last for approximately a month of operation when using the mouse for 12-14 hours a day. A unified transceiver is inserted into the computer port, with the help of which, in addition to the mouse, you can also connect about 5 devices, if memory serves. All this is controlled through a program that can be downloaded from the manufacturer’s website. The exact same animal was bought for work.
First you need to disassemble the rodent. Using a knife, screwdriver or something suitable, carefully pry off the front sliding pads. This must be done so that the sticky layer remains on them, and not on the base of the mouse, in the future it will be easier to glue them back. Let's take them off. Under them there are two screws that need to be unscrewed.
Next, remove the battery compartment cover and take out the batteries. Where the positive terminals for connecting the batteries are located, carefully bend the sticker, there are two more screws under it. Unscrew and remove the top part of the mouse.
Then we need to make an auxiliary tool with which we will open the microphone. Initially I tried using a sewing needle, but it didn't work. The body turned out to be quite fragile and began to crack when the needle was inserted. I was already depressed and thought that nothing would work out without soldering the mic. But then a paper clip caught my eye, an ordinary paper clip. Using a file, we process it so that we get a wedge, like on a flat-head screwdriver. The thinner the wedge, the better and more painlessly it will fit between the button cover and its base.
Carefully insert the wedge of our paper clip between the cover of the microphone and the base, until it clicks into place, and turn it slightly along the axis. The lid should move slightly away from the base of the microphone and snap off. We do the same on the opposite side. Mikrik is disassembled. The bulk of the work was done.
We collect all the button parts in a pile so that nothing gets lost. Using fine sandpaper or just a knife, clean the button contacts indicated by arrows in the picture.
Then we install the moving contact as shown in the picture. It’s better, of course, to use tweezers, the parts are very small and you have to be vigilant all the time, the contact can fly away at any moment, you won’t find it. In general, maximum attention!
Pay attention to one more point. The mikrik's pimplet is very small. During the installation process, it flew away somewhere, I thought that was it, the mouse was covered. But 10 minutes of searching saved the situation. Therefore, be very careful and install the button carefully. Also, to facilitate assembly, it is first necessary to apply a small amount of lubricant to the inside of the little cover so that it does not fall out when installing the button. That's it, after that we install the microphone cover with the button on the base and snap it into place. Next, assemble the mouse in reverse order. In this way, two mice were repaired, both continue to serve properly.
I hope the article will be useful and you will extend the life of your favorite rodent-)
I've been looking for a good one for a long time wireless mouse. The main criterion for choosing a mouse was its size and weight - it should be large so that the hand rests completely on it, and the hand does not have to be twisted, and relatively heavy so that something is felt in the hand.
Tried several different models. In particular, Carpo V2016 is still used at home, so there is something to compare with. However, no mouse I've tried compares to this one in terms of ease of use.
First, some general points:
The mouse is powered by one AA battery. At first I tried using batteries (NiMh/NiCd), but they only lasted for 5 days, because... at a voltage slightly less than 1.2 V, the mouse refuses to work. And the battery still has ~3/4 capacity left. Therefore, I buy a pack of batteries at Ikea for a couple of euros, which lasts for 8 months. One battery lasts for 20-30 days, depending on the intensity of use. 
The mouse comes with a USB Unifying Receiver, which allows you to connect up to 6 Logitech devices. This can be convenient if you have a limited number of USB ports.
Near the wheel there is a button that allows you to mechanically switch the scrolling mode: in one mode the wheel spins like a regular mouse, with clicks, and in the second, which I usually use, the wheel spins freely for a few seconds, which allows you to quickly scroll through long pages. I have never seen such a mode on any other mouse.
There is also a DPI/battery indicator on the top side. DPI can be switched additionally. buttons or using software. 
As you can see in the next photo, there are 4 buttons under the thumb, the actions for which are configured using proprietary software. I even tried to configure and use them, but since I use hotkeys intensively, I refused to use additional buttons.
The DarkField inscription is visible on the end - according to the manufacturer, thanks to this technology, the mouse works accurately on uneven surfaces. The mouse also works well on reflective surfaces. 
At the front end of the mouse there is a MicroUSB connector, with which you can connect the mouse to charge the battery or turn it into a wired mouse if you don’t have a live battery at hand. 
As you can see, in the next picture, the hand rests completely on the mouse, the mouse clearly responds to pressing all the buttons. My hand does not get tired even with very long work with a mouse. 
In my opinion, the mouse is worth the money, Logitech knows its stuff. It is now out of production and the remainder is being sold on ebay. I think I’ll buy an MX Master for home; it’s roughly similar to the Performance MX in shape and size.
Please do not throw rags at me because the mouse is broken, stained and dusty - after all, it has been used every day for 2 years. If anyone knows with which batteries it can work for more than 5 days, I would be glad to receive advice.
I'm planning to buy +6 Add to favorites I liked the review +16 +27It is clear that we will not be repairing the click, but the button of the Logitech MX Revolution mouse, or rather the microphone that lies under it. The essence of the problem is that the click has become glitchy. Instead of a single click, when pressed, the button acted as a double click, or stuck, as if the long-released button remained pressed.
The mouse is good, very comfortable and expensive enough that you just throw it away and buy a new one. Therefore, at first there were experiments with reinstalling SetPoint different versions Based on the results, it became finally clear that the problem was purely mechanical. Googling also confirmed the unfortunate fact of the weakness of the microphones in Logitech mice. Although, it’s worth noting that I’ve already had another copy of the previous top-end mouse from Logitech in extremely aggressive use mode for about 5 years now and there are no problems with the microphone.
Disassembling the mouse
To do this, you need to unscrew 4 bolts on its belly, which are hidden under the patches. Try to peel off the marks carefully. The adhesive layer stubbornly remains on the belly. And don’t bend them, if later there are creases on the patches, it will be difficult to straighten them out. After unscrewing the bolts, the top cover can be easily removed, but is connected to the bottom with a cable. The long cable does not interfere with the repair of the mic, but it can be disconnected if desired.
The ill-fated mikrik is in front of us
Model D2FC-F-7N. By the way, googling this number yielded several very interesting links. They will be at the end of the article. Off the top of my head, I couldn’t find these mics online in Moscow stores. They're on eBay for $3 a pair. Also, such microphones were used in other Logitech mice, so if you have a dead one lying around somewhere, you can unsolder the microphone from the old mouse and solder it into a new one.I decided to disassemble the microphone
It's not difficult to do this. Using a thin screwdriver or knife, pry the lid off first from one side, then from the other, and remove the lid. When we remove the cover the button falls out. Try not to lose it. The long end of the button is inserted back into the lid.
The essence of the problem with a sticky button is that the tongue of this plastic gets tired. The plate must be removed, the tongue bent slightly and the plate inserted back.
The most difficult thing in the whole repair is just putting the record back. It is small, bends easily, you need to insert it so that there is tension so that the right end of the plate is pressed tightly against the upper contact on the right.
It took me about five minutes to disassemble the mouse, and about half an hour to install the plate for the first time. Then I took the mouse apart twice more to make the click more distinct. But in the end the mouse works. As a bonus, the click is quieter.
In conclusion, a few useful links, which helped me a lot.
I highly recommend looking at the links before starting the repair, especially in terms of bending the tongue.
It is clear that we will not repair the click, but the button of the Logitech MX Revolution mouse, or rather the microphone that lies under it. The essence of the problem is that the click has become glitchy. Instead of a single click, when pressed, the button acted as a double click, or stuck, as if the long-released button remained pressed.
The mouse is good, very comfortable and expensive enough that you just throw it away and buy a new one. Therefore, at first there were experiments with reinstalling SetPoint of different versions, as a result of which it became finally clear that the problem was purely mechanical. Googling also confirmed the unfortunate fact of the weakness of the microphones in Logitech mice. Although, it’s worth noting that I’ve already had another copy of the previous top-end mouse from Logitech in extremely aggressive use mode for about 5 years now and there are no problems with the microphone.
Disassembling the mouse
To do this, you need to unscrew 4 bolts on its belly, which are hidden under the patches. Try to peel off the marks carefully. The adhesive layer stubbornly remains on the belly. And don’t bend them, if later there are creases on the patches, it will be difficult to straighten them out. After unscrewing the bolts, the top cover can be easily removed, but is connected to the bottom with a cable. The long cable does not interfere with the repair of the mic, but it can be disconnected if desired.
The ill-fated mikrik is in front of us
Model D2FC-F-7N. By the way, googling this number yielded several very interesting links. They will be at the end of the article. Off the top of my head, I couldn’t find these mics online in Moscow stores. They're on eBay for $3 a pair. Also, such microphones were used in other Logitech mice, so if you have a dead one lying around somewhere, you can unsolder the microphone from the old mouse and solder it into a new one.
I decided to disassemble the microphone
It's not difficult to do this. Using a thin screwdriver or knife, pry the lid off first from one side, then from the other, and remove the lid. When we remove the cover the button falls out. Try not to lose it. The long end of the button is inserted back into the lid.
The essence of the problem with a sticky button is that the tongue of this plastic gets tired. The plate must be removed, the tongue bent slightly and the plate inserted back.
The most difficult thing in the whole repair is just putting the record back. It is small, bends easily, you need to insert it so that there is tension so that the right end of the plate is pressed tightly against the upper contact on the right.
It took me about five minutes to disassemble the mouse, and about half an hour to install the plate for the first time. Then I took the mouse apart twice more to make the click more distinct. But in the end the mouse works. As a bonus, the click is quieter.
In conclusion, some useful links that helped me a lot.
I highly recommend looking at the links before starting the repair, especially in terms of bending the tongue.
It is clear that we will not be repairing the click, but the button of the Logitech MX Revolution mouse, or rather the microphone that lies under it. The essence of the problem is that the click has become glitchy. Instead of a single click, when pressed, the button acted as a double click, or stuck, as if the long-released button remained pressed.
The mouse is good, very comfortable and expensive enough that you just throw it away and buy a new one. Therefore, at first there were experiments with reinstalling SetPoint of different versions, as a result of which it became finally clear that the problem was purely mechanical. Googling also confirmed the unfortunate fact of the weakness of the microphones in Logitech mice. Although, it’s worth noting that I’ve already had another copy of the previous top-end mouse from Logitech in extremely aggressive use mode for about 5 years now and there are no problems with the microphone.
Disassembling the mouse
To do this, you need to unscrew 4 bolts on its belly, which are hidden under the patches. Try to peel off the marks carefully. The adhesive layer stubbornly remains on the belly. And don’t bend them, if later there are creases on the patches, it will be difficult to straighten them out. After unscrewing the bolts, the top cover can be easily removed, but is connected to the bottom with a cable. The long cable does not interfere with the repair of the mic, but it can be disconnected if desired.
The ill-fated mikrik is in front of us
Model D2FC-F-7N. By the way, googling this number yielded several very interesting links. They will be at the end of the article. Off the top of my head, I couldn’t find these mics online in Moscow stores. They're on eBay for $3 a pair. Also, such microphones were used in other Logitech mice, so if you have a dead one lying around somewhere, you can unsolder the microphone from the old mouse and solder it into a new one.I decided to disassemble the microphone
It's not difficult to do this. Using a thin screwdriver or knife, pry the lid off first from one side, then from the other, and remove the lid. When we remove the cover the button falls out. Try not to lose it. The long end of the button is inserted back into the lid.
The essence of the problem with a sticky button is that the tongue of this plastic gets tired. The plate must be removed, the tongue bent slightly and the plate inserted back.
The most difficult thing in the whole repair is just putting the record back. It is small, bends easily, you need to insert it so that there is tension so that the right end of the plate is pressed tightly against the upper contact on the right.
It took me about five minutes to disassemble the mouse, and about half an hour to install the plate for the first time. Then I took the mouse apart twice more to make the click more distinct. But in the end the mouse works. As a bonus, the click is quieter.
In conclusion, some useful links that helped me a lot.
I highly recommend looking at the links before starting the repair, especially in terms of bending the tongue.