Updated 06/02/2015. The article is relevant for the entire 2015.
How to choose a computer so as not to regret it. Choose a good and inexpensive computer!

If you have never been interested in the parameters of certain computer components, then choosing one will be quite difficult for you. But fortunately, you can read my article and your decision will be easy and correct. The most important thing to remember is that the most expensive is not always the best. And also do not trust consultants in stores, since their main task is to sell stale goods that no one buys. Therefore, they will try to convince you in every possible way, but you must insist on your own. To make sure your choice of computer is informed, read the article to the end!

So, the first thing we must do is decide what we need a computer for. There are three different options:

• office solutions;
• home options;
• and gaming systems.

Office computers These are not necessarily machines that are in offices, but simply a generalized name for budget solutions. They are only capable of working with documents and surfing the Internet. Even watching movies can be difficult due to the lack of a full-fledged video card, games will be terribly slow or will not start at all. After all, office solutions usually use weak components, for example, a built-in video card instead of a normal one.

Home computer this is the average level. Here you can already watch movies, even play some games, but not at maximum graphic settings. Such a computer is quite suitable for most users and will not eat up most of the family budget. It is advisable to assemble the configuration yourself, rather than take ready-made solutions, because usually their price includes assembly, various licensing software, which may well not be useful, and so on. It’s always better to assemble everything yourself, especially since by 2015 the home computer has become a simple construction kit, where it is simply impossible to assemble something incorrectly.

And finally, gaming computers. Again, this is a general name, it does not mean that the computer will be used only for games. It just tells us that the hardware of such a machine is very serious and powerful. Will allow us to process huge graphic images, for example, in PhotoShop or 3D Max. Cut and convert video at a decent speed, perform complex calculations. Such computers are assembled by the users themselves, often not immediately, since they are quite expensive.

For example, first you buy a good motherboard with a reserve for the future, and then you “hang” an expensive video card, processor, RAM. First one video card, then a second one for SLI mode or CrossFire. First 8GB of RAM, then 8 more for working in Double-Channel or even Triple-channel mode, depending on the configuration.

So, if you need more than just a computer for checking email and typing, but you don't play the latest games in the gaming industry or process gigabytes of video, then a home computer is suitable for you.

Now we will go through all the components and talk a little about them. For each point, I will select examples of components that are successful, in my opinion, specifically for a home computer. As a result, at the end of the article, ideally, I will succeed system unit, which will delight its owner with its performance and potential.

Choosing a computer monitor

We will start not with the system unit, but with the monitor, because this is actually the first thing the user sees, and if the image on it is bad and of poor quality, then what is the point of powerful hardware? If you agree with this, then we continue, and if not, then go straight to the point about system units.

So, how to choose a monitor so that it pleases you with a rich and clear picture? It's easier than it seems. There are only a few monitors important characteristics. Well, I hope everyone has long understood that there can be no talk of any CRT monitors. This is a relic of the past, I don’t know if they are even sold anywhere now or not, but, in any case, forget about them like a bad dream!

Naturally, this will be an LCD monitor, which should have an acceptable response time of 2-8 milliseconds, and it will most likely be widescreen, this is also almost a standard. 1920x1080 resolution for watching movies and playing games Full format HD, you can, of course, take more, for example, 3840x2160.

Viewing angles are actually not as critical as many people write and talk about them. An angle of 170 horizontally and 160 vertically is a common option, because you are not going to look at the monitor by placing it in front of you on the sofa or bed, right? Everyone sits and looks at the monitor at the right angle, and even with minor deviations the picture will not lose its brightness.

The matrix will most likely be either TFT PLS or TFT IPS. And this is no longer a toy for true aesthetes or photographers, as it was before; now these technologies are used in almost all modern models. It is used everywhere (to replace fluorescent), which consumes little electricity and improves color rendition. I also highly recommend purchasing monitors with a matte screen!

We will give examples in each section so that you roughly understand what we are talking about. The DELL U2414H and ASUS VX239H monitors may well serve as examples, each in their own field. They have different formats, different matrices, different response times, but each has its own strengths and weaknesses. Read descriptions, reviews and understand.

That's all about monitors, now let's move on to the periphery, without which normal work at the computer is not possible.

Peripherals (select mouse and keyboard)

As already mentioned, peripherals are a very important thing that you shouldn’t skimp on too much. Of course, I don’t encourage you to buy a wireless gyroscopic mouse for 10 thousand, but you shouldn’t buy a mouse for 100 rubles either. Either she scratches the table, then the cursor begins to twitch. And many cheap mice also have low DPI, which will cause you a lot of inconvenience if you have a large widescreen monitor.


General advice for both mouse and keyboard: do not buy cheap ones wireless devices. If you don’t have the money for expensive models, then buy one with a wire, otherwise later, in the vast majority of cases, problems with the signal will appear. These are not just my thoughts - this is really true. No money - we choose wires and no problems with the signal. If you have money and desire, we take quality products.

Let's start with mouse selection. It should be comfortable and fit the size of your palm well. Don't buy laptop mice for use on a desktop computer, really. Your hands get tired quickly when working with such a mouse, as it is uncomfortable to hold. The palm should rest completely on the body of the mouse, and not lie on the table. I also don’t recommend chasing the number of additional buttons on a mouse; most people don’t use them at all. But 2, maximum 4 additional keys on the side of the mouse can be allowed, the main thing is that they do not interfere with work. DPI is the image resolution, and in relation to the mouse, in simple language, this is the speed at which the cursor moves on the screen. More precisely, the ratio of the distance by which you physically moved the mouse to the distance on the screen by which the cursor moved.

The larger the monitor and its resolution, the more DPI you need for comfortable work. If you purchased a Full HD monitor with a resolution of 1920×1080 (I recommend choosing this), then you will need at least 800 dpi, and preferably 1200. Then you will not have to make unnecessary movements to move the cursor to the right place. An example of a good mouse is the A4Tech XL-750BK and in general the x7 series from A4tech is very successful.

Keyboard should be standard so that there are as few additional and, moreover, useless keys as possible, then it will last longer and typing on it will be more comfortable. Choose a device with short key travel, that is, small, thin keys. If you know how to touch-type, then getting used to such a keyboard will not be difficult for you; it will take a maximum of 1 - 2 days. It may also have outputs for headphones, microphone and USB. It all depends on your preferences; if necessary, choose a model with outputs. An example of a successful model that will fit into the budget of your home computer is Logitech K200.

We've sorted out the periphery. Now you have everything except the most important thing - the system unit! And we’ll start with the body for it, since very often people neglect the “box”, but in vain, and here’s why, read on.

How important is the system case?

The point here is this. Many people think that there is no point in buying a good case. I screwed all the hardware, even to a cardboard box, the main thing was that it didn’t fall off. But the fact is that powerful hardware, especially the video card and processor, get very hot. The temperature of a video card without a cooling system can soar over 150 degrees in a few seconds. Accordingly, when a cooling system is installed on it, it removes heat from the video card itself and releases it into the surrounding air layers. This is where you need a well-designed case so that air can flow in and out of the box freely, otherwise the cooling system will become ineffective. Then the computer will crash.

If you don’t want to keep the case open all the time, then make sure that coolers (fans) are installed inside it for intake and exhaust. Again, a rather delicate point: if there is no balance between the amount of incoming and outgoing air, then dust will begin to accumulate inside the case and it will need to be constantly cleaned.

Sizes matter too. For example, most modern video cards have impressive capacities. CPU coolers can also be large. All this will lead to the fact that the components will simply interfere with each other and it will be impossible to install them. Make sure the case is spacious enough to accommodate all the parts you purchase. Example - Thermaltake Chaser A31 VP300A1W2N Black.

A few words about power supplies, an easy choice

Recently, power supplies have stopped being installed in cases, and they have to be purchased separately. In fact, this is correct, because the standard blocks that came with the case were almost always weak, and they still had to be replaced, but the cost of it was included in the price of the box. Accordingly, now we buy only the case, and select the power supply to suit our needs ourselves. It is worth noting that it does not grow in proportion to the increase in productivity.


Yes, it is growing, but mainly due to video cards, since processors and hard drives somehow restrain their appetites in this regard. Reducing the CPU process technology often leads to reduced power consumption. U hard drives so-called “green” models are appearing, which also operate on lower energy consumption and emit less heat. But video cards constantly require more and more watts. Actually, because of this, we will need a power supply of 600-800 Watts. In this case, it is desirable that the wires can be disconnected from the unit itself. This will save a lot of space in the case, everything will be neat, beautiful and practical. Thus, you can focus on models such as Thermaltake TR2 RX 650W (detachable wires) and Thermaltake TR2 600W (not detachable).

Now, finally, let's move on to the components. This will be the most interesting part, especially for those who simply have not read the text until this point. The first thing we need is a motherboard, since it will determine which processor, video card, RAM and hard drive we install.

The motherboard is the basis of your computer

Now I will explain everything briefly so as not to fill your head with unnecessary information. Of all the parameters of the motherboard, we can highlight the most basic ones. For example, we will not consider the form factor, since for a home computer you will buy a motherboard of either standard ATX size (305x244 mm) or microATX (244x244 mm), which is more preferable, since this particular format is not overloaded with extra slots. So let's look at the options that will really be useful to you when choosing:

• socket (the processor type depends on it);
• RAM connectors (quantity, type);
• slots for video cards (number, type).

As for, for example, IDE or PCI connectors, forget about them, they are a relic of the past. You can also somehow justify the presence of PCI-E 1x, 2x, and so on, but they are also not a parameter that you should pay attention to when buying a motherboard.

The socket can be either for Intel or AMD processors. Moreover, each of them can also be different. For example, on this moment LGA1150 is relevant for Intel. AMD has FM2+ and AM3+ sockets. But soon the situation will change again, I am sure of it. RAM must be DDR3, 2 or 4 slots. Of course, there are two connectors for a PCI-E 16x video card, if you plan or you can limit yourself to one slot, support for PCI-E version 3.0 is mandatory. An example is ASUS B85M-G, which has everything you need for a home system.

RAM, nothing complicated

Once we have chosen the motherboard, nothing can stop us - we have reached the finish line of assembling our system unit and the computer as a whole. There is nothing complicated in choosing RAM. It is only worth noting that it will be DDR3, the total volume is at least 8GB, the frequency is 1600 - 2800 MHz.


This volume can be achieved different ways. For example, buy one 8GB stick, but it would be better to install 2 4GB sticks. It will be much better both in price and performance. Here, as an example, let’s take a regular one, or better yet 2 pieces, in total we get 16 GB and excellent performance for a low price. Perhaps you have heard about RAM timings, but I do not advise you to change them (overclock the system) without knowledge in this area. The standard factory settings are quite sufficient.

Video card: one, two or zero?

Since we are talking about a budget home computer, and not a powerful gaming solution, there will be only one video card. But you can spend a little more money on it, instead of buying two cheap ones just for SLI or CrossFire. As a result, one good video card can satisfy the requirements of even modern games at ultra settings.

The connector, naturally, will be PCI-E 16x, there can be no other option. Regarding the choice of a specific model, you should refer to the same overclockers and their reviews. You should aim for 2 - 3 GB of memory, you don't need more. After all, we, I repeat, are assembling a budget home computer. So, after reading dozens of reviews, I settled on two models, you can buy the one that will be in your store. Also, personal preferences may come into play here, so choose for yourself: MSI GeForce GTX 970 and MSI Radeon R9 290. They both show good overclocking potential, if anyone is interested. But even at standard frequencies, their power is enough for all everyday tasks and for a pleasant relaxation while watching movies in Full HD, playing tanks, battlefield 4 and GTA 5 on ultra settings.


We should also talk about built-in video cards. No, no, these are not those useless video cards built into the motherboard, which even when working in Word slowed down and could not draw the picture properly. This is absolutely new technology building a system when there is both a processor and a graphics core on one chip. Such models include A-Series from AMD, and most of Intel's modern models have such a graphics core. As for their performance, judging by the tests, it is enough even for some games, but this is purely individual for each processor, you need to read the tests. It is only worth noting that if you want to save on a video card, now you can do it easily and simply. An example of a typical solution from AMD: AMD A10-7850K Kaveri, when for very reasonable money you get an excellent processor and good graphics. From Intel, look at the Core i3 - Core i7 line, but the built-in AMD graphics cores are much better, I warn you right away!

Choosing a good processor - the heart of our system unit

Almost all computer performance depends on the processor. The fact is that it is the processor that is responsible for all calculations, so its power should be enough and even a little in excess, with a reserve for the future. It is also worth noting that many processors can be easily overclocked, that is, you can increase their performance without overpaying. But this is a separate topic, but for now let’s focus on the characteristics of the processors.

• Socket.
• Frequency.
• Number of Cores.
• Cache volumes at different levels.

We won’t go into detail on the first parameter – the socket, because we have already chosen the motherboard, so we look at what socket it is. In our case, this is LGA 1150. Therefore, the entire line is suitable for us Intel Core from i3 to i7, but the price range here is too wide. For our budget solution, you can take the modern version of Core i5. You can look, for example, at. Its power is enough for you to solve everyday tasks and all modern games.
The number of cores in our case is 4, the processor frequency is 3500 MHz, the 3rd level cache is 6 MB. You can use these numbers as a guide when making your choice.

Hard drive or cloud?

Recently, there has been a trend towards storing information on the Internet. Such technologies are called cloud technologies. The most striking and well-known examples are cloud data storage services: Yandex.Disk, Google Drive, DropBox. You can listen to music on Vkontakte, Odnoklassniki, Yandex.Music and the like. Watch films in online cinemas, in general, you understand me. Thus, many can get by altogether hard drive 200GB and will not feel discomfort or lack of memory.

However, if you still want to keep a collection of music, films in good quality, photographs on your computer good resolution and much more, then you just need a large hard drive. I think 1TB is enough for a huge collection of anything.

As for the other parameters, there is only one form factor for a home computer - 3.5 inches. The disc rotation speed is 7200 rpm. The connection interface is SATA 6Gb/s, the buffer volume is proportional to the volume of the disk itself. So, for a volume of 500GB the buffer will be 16-32MB, and for 1TB it will be about 64MB. Here I would recommend, for example, Western Digital WD10EFRX. This is the WD Red server series, which is distinguished by its survivability and reliability.

In general, the advantages of SSDs include greater speed. But besides this, they are silent, since they have no moving parts, are more reliable and consume less energy.

Now you can assemble a computer yourself, without outside help. Choose all the components for both the budget version and a completely powerful machine. I still advise you to assemble a home computer if you do not need a gaming option. Since the prices for components are falling very quickly, accordingly, chasing after new products, you can very much overpay! Also, it is most profitable to buy in online stores.

A laptop or tablet has a lot of advantages, but if you want to assemble a computer with your own hands, then the choice will be in favor of a desktop. Assembly desktop computers has long ceased to be the lot of the elite: it does not require special knowledge and skills in working with complex tools. All you need to assemble a computer yourself is instructions, a set of compatible components, a Phillips screwdriver and accuracy.

Configuration Types

Each user knows well what exactly he intends to do on the computer. The main advantage of self-assembly is the selection of configurations for the tasks with which you plan to load the system. Simply put, computers are divided into three types based on their purpose:

• Office/budget PC. For working with documents, tables, databases, 1C and similar software, correspondence, searching for information on the Internet, etc.
• The multimedia system solves a wide range of tasks, from web surfing to games. The same computer is usually used to store information.
• The gaming computer is designed for maximum performance in demanding games. The gaming PC copes with other tasks without difficulty, since it has top-end equipment.

There are intermediate configurations, and in addition, an upgrade with increased performance is possible.

Selection of components

At this step, you need to fulfill two conditions: select the most productive and compatible equipment that works flawlessly “in conjunction”, and stay within the budget.

Components of any system unit:

• power supply unit (PSU);
• motherboard (system) board;
• processor with cooler (fan);
• RAM sticks;
• system disk, often also a data storage device (HDD and/or SSD);
• video card (or integrated video adapter);
• frame.

You should devote some time to selecting hardware. There's no need to rush. Firstly, many sellers, taking advantage of the client’s inexperience, try to sell unpromising hardware, for example, a capacious and expensive, but slow hard drive. Secondly, if you compare the price lists of several companies and online stores, you can find a considerable range of prices and choose the most advantageous offers.

Budget PC

Even taking into account the price increase, it is quite possible to spend no more than 10 thousand rubles on a system unit. Modern motherboards have integrated graphics, which allows you to do without a video card without giving up entertainment. At your leisure, you can play not only the simplest games, but also moderately demanding ones. Or watch the video in Full HD format.

The optimal choice (if we talk about the beginning of 2015) would be the inexpensive dual-core Celeron G1840 processor from Intel. The motherboard for it is based on the Intel H97 chipset, for example ASRock Fatality H97. AMD platform – CPU AMD A6-6400K and motherboard based on AMD A75. When choosing a motherboard, pay attention to the presence of connectors for connecting a monitor: HDTV, DVI or DisplayPort.

If you pay a little extra and build a computer based on a processor with an integrated graphics core, for example the AMD A10-7850K, you will get a good multimedia PC.

RAM – DDR3-1333, 2 modules of 1Gb each. A 500 GB hard drive will be more than enough. HDD speed – 7200 rpm. Low speed models (5400 rpm) are suitable for data storage only.

Attention! Memory sticks should not be grasped by the contacts with your fingers, just like the video card or any other boards.

A 350 W power supply and a MidiTower case, and if free space not enough - then MiniTower (the motherboard format is selected accordingly). A DVD+RW drive is a desirable, but not mandatory, purchase. The operating system and software can be installed from a flash drive or using an external drive.

You should not skimp too much on a work PC monitor - this can negatively affect your eyesight. Option: inexpensive but high-quality BenQ GL2460HM with a TN+Film matrix and a 24-inch diagonal.

Multimedia PC

A “wide-profile” computer for the whole family can be assembled by spending no more than 40,000 rubles on components.

Sample configuration:

The noise level will decrease if you choose quiet fans. The monitor has a wide viewing angle, because there can be several viewers. The most popular diagonal is 27 inches (options: BENQ QW2760HS, ASUS VN279Q). If the computer is installed in the living room, headphones, for example Gigabyte Force H3X, will come in handy - in case one wants to play shooting games while the rest are watching TV.

Gaming computer

Such a car will seriously empty your wallet and enrich your life with emotions. Experienced gamers are well versed in hardware, and the magazine “Gaming” and the website igromania.ru will help beginners. The magazine has a section “Iron Shop”, where 7 options are presented monthly gaming configurations, for every taste and budget. Elite hardware is presented in the “I saw you in a dream” category. But you can choose a price level from “Borrow, but buy!” and “Death to the brakes!” to "Cheap and cheerful." For both platforms.

Among the processors, the stable leadership is for the AMD FX8350 (8 physical cores, 4 GHz, L2 cache 4x2048 KB plus the “popular” price), Intel fans will choose the Core i5-4690 or Core i7-4790K (letter K - for overclocking enthusiasts, means it has an unlocked multiplier).

Rating central processing units(CHIP, December 2014)

Owners of a computer on the AMD platform cannot save on cooling in any way - these CPUs are characterized by increased heat generation. The cooler mount can be either universal or designed for a specific socket.

The video card is the “heart” of a gaming PC, no less important than the processor. The beginning of 2015 was marked by the release of an interesting model - Nvidia GeForce GTX 970. Its price is almost twice as modest as that of the “older” GTX 980 (14,000 versus 24,000 rubles), and its performance is only 8% less. The two cooling fans are quiet and stop when idle. The card consumes only 145 W (the closest analogs use 230-250 W).

Alas, the hard drive is the slowest link in data transfer. To prevent the hard drive from slowing down the entire system, it is advisable to use an SSD+HDD combination: allocate a solid-state drive for the system partition, and place your files on the hard drive.

When everything is decided with the configuration, you can go shopping or place an order online.

Advice: it is advisable to select a monitor in person, since true color rendition cannot be displayed in any specifications. This requires a human eye. If you decide to buy from an online store, then the solution is to go to the nearest market and see the monitors in action, that is, on the display window.

Preparing for assembly

It is better to temporarily remove pets from the room where the assembly will take place, as well as anything that can be accidentally touched or knocked over. In the future, as you develop skills, such precautions are unlikely to be needed, but to begin with, it’s better not to take risks. Hands are washed thoroughly and wiped dry. Clothing should not generate static.

The components are unpacked and laid out on a clean, flat, lint-free surface. You need a manual for the motherboard; if you don’t have it, download the manual from the manufacturer’s website. At the same time, they take the latest drivers (not beta, only stable versions!).

Check for the presence of thermal paste, because without it you cannot install the cooler on the processor. Usually it comes bundled with boxed versions of the CPU. If there is no thermal paste, you need to buy it. The optimal choice: inexpensive, time-tested KPT-8, although Alsil or foreign analogues can also be used.

You will need 2 power cords - to the system unit and to the monitor, SATA cables, a video cable to the monitor, as well as adapters to the video card (if it requires additional power). Some power supplies already have connectors designed for connecting video cards. It’s a good idea to prepare a dozen small ties (clamps) to nicely tidy up the wires inside the system unit. The monitor, mouse and keyboard are also placed nearby - they will soon be needed, as well as installation disk with OS.

Assembly

It won’t take much time if the workplace is prepared in advance. Sequencing:

1. Installing the processor. Place the motherboard on a flat, horizontal surface (on a table or floor), with bubble wrap or thick cardboard underneath it. Remove the plastic plug from the socket, open the latch and cover. The processor is placed strictly in accordance with the markings, checking the instructions for the board. Typically, gold-plated triangles serve as a guide, which indicate one of the corners of the socket and, accordingly, the processor. There is no need to press hard on anything, otherwise the socket or processor will be damaged. After installing the CPU, close the metal cover and latch.
2. Apply thermal paste to the top area of ​​the processor carefully and in as thin and even a layer as possible. In cases where thermal paste is already on the “bottom” of the cooler, all that remains is to remove the protective film.
3. Installing a radiator and cooler on the processor. It is produced in accordance with the instructions for the fan, since there are several types of fastenings. General point: do not press hard on the radiator, especially on its edges. The processor is housed in a protective steel case, but there is still a risk of damage. Once installed, the cooler is immediately connected to the corresponding connector (CPU Fan) on the board.
4. Open the side cover of the case and install the aluminum plug that came with the motherboard. Place the case in such a way that the platform under the motherboard is in a horizontal position - this is more convenient to work with. Attention: no small metal objects (bolts, paper clips, etc.) should get under the board!
5. Mount the motherboard (with the processor already installed) in its designated place. In any case, “seats” for bolts are located in a standard way and coincide with 4 or 6 holes on the board itself. All interface connectors on the board must fit into appropriately shaped slots in the plug.
6. According to the instructions, front panel buttons and indicators are connected to the board - Power, Reset, IDE LED, etc. Then connect the USB connectors (without mixing up Power and Ground - otherwise you can say goodbye to several flash drives before the error is detected).
7. The power supply is secured with 4 bolts. Connect additional processor power (4-pin connector with 2 black and 2 yellow wires) and system board power (20+4-pin connector). Do not use excessive force! Deformation of the board can cause the tracks to break.
8. One or more hard drives are placed in the HDD cage, their power supply and SATA cables are connected. If there is an SSD, connect it, as well as the disk drive.
9. The video card (after removing 1 or 2 plugs in the rear of the case) is inserted into the PCI-Express slot and gently pressed until the latch is released. Connect the power supply to the video card, if provided.
10. Select all cables and wires in such a way that they do not interfere with air circulation inside the case and do not get into the fan blades. Typically, the wires are secured with ties in the form of a bundle and placed around the perimeter of the motherboard. Simultaneously check whether all devices are connected.
11. Install the memory strips into the slots - first making sure that the slots in the strips coincide with the “keys” in the slots, and then evenly and not pressing them too hard until they click.

The video shows the whole process step by step. The installation of the processor (AMD and Intel), memory cards, connection of front panel buttons, and other important points are shown in detail, with comments.

Assembly gaming computer It differs only in the price of components (top video card, 2 HDD+SSD, 16 GB of RAM, etc.). The video will help you see this:

Tip: small bolts will never be lost if you use a magnetic screwdriver.

The computer configurator with compatibility check allows you to quickly assemble a system unit with the user’s needs technical characteristics. Using our online designer, you can easily assemble a reliable office machine, a home multimedia system unit, or a powerful gaming configuration.

Computer assembly online

Nowadays, like many years before, assembling a computer from independently selected components is popular. This is a good opportunity to choose what you want. Nothing limits you; there are hundreds of options available for assembly, among which there is sure to be one you like.

Our online store offers the opportunity to assemble a computer online through the configurator. In it, this process is presented in the form of categories of components, from the processor to the power supply. Each category contains an expanded range of models with descriptions of characteristics for ease of selection.

To simplify the selection of components, the configurator has a compatibility filter for the main components of the assembly. For example, by selecting a specific processor, the following components are automatically filtered by compatibility. Also, you will be presented with a choice to install operating system. After completing the assembly process, you receive the final result based on three parameters: price, technical data, rendered image. After placing an order and confirming it by phone, our specialists assemble this kit and check its functionality.

The advantage of this method of purchasing a system unit is that you not only choose the components you want, but also have the opportunity to choose the brand or manufacturer of the part.

Having assembled a certain configuration and completed by pressing the assemble/buy buttons, the assembly is assigned a specific serial number, by typing it in the product search bar, you can find this PC and send a link to it to friends or acquaintances for consultation or recommending them for purchase.

An important feature of our configurator is the “get an expert’s opinion” function by sending your request via this form, You will receive a detailed answer with a recommendation for email, specified by you.

Try it and see for yourself - assembling a computer online is easy and simple! In case of difficulties, you can always get advice from our specialists on all issues that interest you.

I talked about why I always prefer to order a new computer in the form of separate components. In the comments to this article, I was asked to show, for those who have never encountered anything like this, exactly how the assembly process works: how complicated it all is, and well, maybe If you are not too advanced of a user, assemble a computer yourself. And then I thought that if I filmed and demonstrated this process, it could become a useful article for the “Educational Education” section. After all, in fact, there is nothing impossible in assembling a computer yourself. Mastering all this is no more difficult than assembling a cabinet from IKEA, and even then - in my opinion, assembling a cabinet from IKEA is noticeably more difficult. And if you more or less understand what components a computer consists of and how these components need to select, then, of course, you new computer It’s better to assemble it yourself - from those components that you yourself select for your tasks and your financial capabilities. Well, let’s see how I assembled my computer: what goes into what, what complications and subtleties there may be. Here is a prepared set of components (what these components are and why I chose them is in the article). (All photos are clickable so you can see all the details.)

At home, it is better to assemble on a table if it is of sufficient size, but even better on a bed - this is the most convenient: you don’t have to bend over too much, and there is plenty of space. I take the case out of the box. Handsome, isn't he? Remove both side covers.

The case contains wires with connectors for connecting various ports, coolers and switches. There are also bags with all kinds of fasteners and clamps.

The front door opens, underneath there are four five-inch seats, for example for DVDs and all sorts of additional panels.

On the left side of the top cover of the case there are two USB 3.0 ports, two USB 2.0 ports, outputs for connecting headphones and a microphone.

On the right there is a power button, a reboot button, a button for turning on/off the backlight of the case, a three-position button for switching blowing modes, a hard drive operation indicator, and a blowing mode indicator.

Rear part of the case.

First we install the power supply. In the article I wrote that I decided to take the V550 model - 550 W. However, after thinking about it, I decided that I would still take a more powerful power supply. And the point is not that I want to have a power reserve: you never know what I can think of to put in the computer. The fact is that a more powerful power supply will turn on the cooler for airflow much less often, and for me it is extremely important that the computer be practically silent.

This is what I call a smartly packaged power supply. It's really nice to hold it in your hands.

The power supply itself, complete wires and a set of clamps.

We install the power supply into the power supply compartment of the case. It is installed with the fan down - there is a corresponding ventilation window with a dust filter on the computer case.

We fasten the power supply with bolts.

Now it's the motherboard's turn. By the way, before you pick it up, make sure that there is no static electricity on your hands, otherwise if you discharge directly into your mother, it may end badly. The same applies to other computer boards.

We take out the motherboard.

It comes with a large set of fasteners, wiring, adapters, and so on.

Port block.

It must be installed in the corresponding slot in the computer case: carefully bring it to the slot inside the case and insert it evenly until it clicks lightly. Check that the block is seated correctly on all sides.

Slot for installing a processor. Release the clamping handle, open the clamping frame, and remove the plastic plug.

We take the processor out of the box.

We install it in the mounting socket. The triangle in the corner of the processor should face the triangle drawn on the motherboard under the socket. There are also two guides there, so it’s simply impossible to install the processor incorrectly.

Cover the processor with a clamping frame and secure the handle under the protrusion.

Now we install a cooling system on the motherboard with the processor, in simple terms - a cooler.

We take the cooler out of the box. It consists of a radiator and a removable fan.

Two types of fasteners - for Intel processors And AMD processors.

Fasteners for Intel processors.

Remove the fan from the radiator so that it does not interfere.

The black frame is installed on the bottom of the motherboard under the processor, and its posts pass through special holes.

Holders are installed on these racks from the top. They can be installed like mine, or they can be rotated 90 degrees.

Before installing the radiator, the upper part of the processor must be lubricated with a special heat-conducting paste, which will increase the contact area of ​​the radiator pad with the processor and improve heat dissipation. If the paste is not used or applied incorrectly, then it is quite possible that the processor will overheat, which can lead to very serious problems in the operation of the computer. A special syringe with paste is included with the cooler. There you need to unscrew the cap, squeeze out the required amount onto the upper surface of the processor and spread this paste very evenly in a thin layer. Before doing this, do not touch the surfaces of the processor and the radiator landing pad with your fingers to prevent grease stains from appearing.

After this, you need to install the radiator and secure it properly so that it is pressed against the surface of the processor as tightly as possible.

The fan was supplied with special double plastic buffers, with which it was supposed to work even quieter - I installed them.

After that, I installed the fan on the radiator and connected its power to the corresponding connector on motherboard. This connector is located next to the processor, and there you can set the cooler rotation speed through the BIOS or special programs.

Next, you need to install the motherboard into the case. But first, one note about installing the cooler. I have it installed opposite the case fan that supplies air inside the case. However, it would be best to rotate the radiator and fan 90 degrees counterclockwise so that it supplies heated air to the exhaust fan, which is installed on the rear end (both of these fans are clearly visible in the photo). But I was prevented from installing it this way by the location of the memory card slots on the motherboard - in this case, the fan would rest against the memory cards, which is undesirable. That's why I installed it exactly as in the photo - so it doesn't interfere with anything. And I thought that even with this arrangement I would not have any problems with cooling the processor: after all, this is a very effective cooler. (I’ll say right away that this is how it turned out - there were no problems.)

The ports and outputs of the motherboard should be in their places in the already installed block. First, we check that everything is in its place, and then we attach the motherboard, without missing a single fastening point.

The motherboard is installed, now we begin to connect the wires.

In modern cases, special holes are always made with rubber nozzles, through which cables and wires can be routed not from above the motherboard, but through the back wall. It’s more convenient, and then everything looks much neater.

If necessary, connect cables to power supply, we pass them through the back wall and connect them to the pads on the motherboard. The connectors clearly correspond to the heads of the power supply cables, so it’s simply impossible to mix something up.

We connect the power to the main block of the motherboard, bringing the cable out of the hole closest to the block.

We connect the rest of the cables in the same way - audio, USB, power supply for coolers, and so on.

We pass all the cables through the back wall, take them out of the nearest hole and connect them. Later, when we assemble everything, we will remove the extra sections of cables under the back wall.

From the case comes a bundle of wires with heads that connect to a group of contacts on the motherboard - this is the power button (two contacts are simply closed there), the power indicator, Reset, the hard drive indicator. Theoretically, the names and polarity of the contacts are written on the board and in the instructions, but Almost advanced motherboards usually come with a special block, to which you can easily and simply connect wires, and the block is then placed on a group of contacts. This block is here.

We insert the wires (it says what it is on the head of each wire).

We insert the block onto the contacts.

For ease of use, I purchased this universal card reader with additional USB ports. It installs in a five-inch slot in the case.

The set includes two front panels in other colors - white and gray.

My case is white, so I installed a white socket.

A plug is pulled out of the five-inch mounting socket, the card reader is placed there and secured. Its cables connect to the USB pins on the motherboard.

Now let's install the memory. Before doing this, you should look at the instructions, just in case: if only two of the four slots are used (and this is exactly what I have), then the memory plates must be installed through the slot - this is the so-called dual-channel memory configuration. The instructions clearly state how to install this memory: either in the 1st and 3rd slots, or in the 2nd and 4th.

Here are two memory strips.

Installation: there is a special protrusion in the memory slot that shows exactly how to unfold the memory board so that the recess on it coincides with this protrusion and the board is installed in the desired position. The board should be placed in the desired position, and then press lightly from the edges so that the board fits into the slot and the plastic levers snap into place along the edges.

Now we install a terabyte SSD in M.2 format - here it is, handsome.

The motherboard has two slots for M.2. We install it in one of them and secure the board with a screw.

Despite the presence of a terabyte SSD, I still decided to put a quiet three-terabyte HDD in some far corner of the case - for all kinds of data that are not constantly used. The disk is installed very simply: plastic holders are pulled out of the disk basket, iron holders are inserted into the mounting brackets holes hard drive, after which the disk is inserted into the selected section of the basket and latched. Its power and interface connectors are located on the rear wall, where they are connected with a power cable and a SATA cable.

Installed disk. Now it's the turn of the video card.

We take it out and insert it into the slot mother card until the lever clicks into place. (In the photo you can still see the already inserted small video capture card, which I use to take screenshots from media players.)

Advanced video cards require their own power supply - connect it. (For really cool cards you need to connect as many as two power heads.)

Well, everything seems to be collected.

Reinstall both covers.

We connect to power, monitor, keyboard and mouse, start it - everything works.

By the way, the illumination of the rear end is very convenient, especially since it can be turned off when it is not needed.

Well, now some indicators on the assembled machine. SSD speed on M.2.

On an old computer, a Samsung 850 PRO has this speed.

The difference, of course, is very noticeable. There, people using Samsung SSDs turn on the RAPID mode in Samsung Magician and get such completely unrealistic speeds through caching.

But these are just pretty numbers that have nothing to do with reality. But on M.2 this is reality! And this is not the PRO version yet (it’s very expensive, I didn’t see the point in spending money). How does it look in purely practical terms? The system from the start of booting (after BIOS) to the login window is 4 seconds. Launch Lightroom - 2 seconds. Launching Photoshop - 1.5 seconds. The general system index according to Basemark is like this. My old computer (very powerful) had 314.59.
Well, about the temperature of important components. Temperature at minimum rotation speeds (complete silence) when working with the browser, text editor and so on.

Temperature at minimum rotation speeds (complete silence), when the processor is 100% loaded - DVD is being re-encoded to MKV with H.264.

It almost never goes beyond 70 degrees, and this is quite normal. Moreover, all you have to do is increase the speed of the coolers from very quiet to slightly noticeable - everything becomes something like this. At 100% capacity, I note.

In normal loaded mode (Lightroom and other programs), the processor temperature is about 35 degrees. The video card here is quite powerful - Palit Geforce GTX 1070. It has two coolers, but it turns them on only when it is under serious load, and the coolers I still can't hear it. Here's a measurement of the card after playing the latest DOOM for ten minutes at the maximum settings for this configuration. The temperature is less than 60 degrees, and the coolers are spinning at 32% of maximum speed.
These are the indicators for the assembled machine. It’s not for nothing that everything was selected separately. Well, as a conclusion about assembling a computer. The main thing here is to do everything VERY CAREFULLY, taking your time and carefully studying the manuals and pictures in the manual (especially if you still have little experience).

Computer... Now you can’t live without it. And so, when it comes to buying a new device, it’s worth thinking about and asking yourself: “What will be more profitable, assembling or buying a computer?” And it is best to choose the second option. And now you’ll find out why this is so.

Features of self-assembly of a computer

Building a computer from scratch has a number of distinctive features.

First, about the pros:

• The cost of purchasing components separately will be less than the cost of a finished computer.
• This computer will be selected as precisely as possible based on your preferences.

Now about the cons:

• Assembling a computer and selecting components takes additional time.
• It is necessary to understand the installation of components, the operating system and the necessary programs.

As you can see, although there are few advantages, they are much more significant than the disadvantages, since often even the most expensive ready-made computer will have an unbalanced configuration and be incredibly expensive.

Preparing for assembly

Before you start assembling, you need to make sure that all the elements of the “constructor” are assembled. Here's what you should have:

• CPU.
• Motherboard.
• Video card (optional).
• RAM.
• Power unit.
• Frame.
• CPU cooling.
• HDD.
• Monitor.
• Mouse with keyboard.

When you are convinced that your computer is fully equipped, you can begin assembly. Full instructions instructions for assembling a computer will be given below.

Processor Installation

You need to start by installing the processor into the motherboard, not by installing the motherboard into the case. It will simply be more convenient. On the motherboard we find a square metal cover and open it. The space for the processor opens up in front of us.

For correct placement, there are recesses on the processor, and bulges on the motherboard. But you need to keep in mind that the motherboard must be compatible with the brand and line of your processor.

That is, motherboards for some processors are not suitable for others. It is better to ask consultants about compatibility when purchasing a mat. board or processor. Now we take the processor and carefully insert it into the socket. Now you need to close the processor with the lid.

Installing CPU Cooling

After installing the stone, you need to install cooling for it. But before installation, you need to apply thermal paste to the processor. True, now almost all coolers already have thermal paste applied. If there is none, then carefully apply it to the processor in a thin layer (this can be done using a plastic card).

Now let's install the cooler. There are different mounts, just follow the instructions. After installation, move the cooling a little, it should sit very firmly on the motherboard.

RAM

The time has come to install RAM, and there is nothing complicated here. The connector for it is usually located on the side of the processor and there are at least two of them. We simply move the latches and insert it into the connector so that the latches close.

Installing the power supply

The power supply must be placed in the case in front of the motherboard in most cases. In modern cases, the place for it is at the bottom, but it can also be at the top. But one way or another, the principle of its installation does not change.

The block should come with bolts; if there are none, then they come with the body. Just insert the power supply into place and tighten the bolts.

Installing a Hard Drive

The space for the hard drive in the case is allocated closer to the front. We insert it into the connector and secure it with bolts from the housing.

Installing the motherboard

There are special protrusions in the case for the motherboard, the so-called “stumps”. And on the motherboard there are holes for these stumps.

We place the motherboard on them and fasten it using the bolts that come with the case. It should be mentioned that you will not use all the stumps. That's it, the motherboard is installed.

Installing a video card

The video card is placed in a long slot under the processor, just like RAM. Pull back the clamp and insert the video card. Additionally, you need to secure the video card with a screw.

Connecting all components

All that remains is to connect all the components of the system unit with wires.

The motherboard is powered through the largest connector on the right. We just connect it from the power supply.

We also find a wire with the name “CPU” and plug it into the connector with the same name on the top of the motherboard. This is processor power.

We connect the cooling to the connector called “CPU Fan”.

If your video card has a connector for additional power, then look for the “wire” on the power supply. PCI express” and connect it.

To connect a hard drive, you need to take the “SATA” connector that comes with the case and connect it to the motherboard and the hard drive. You also need to connect the “SATA” cable from the power supply to it.

Now connect the front panel of the case to the motherboard. These are the wires coming from the case. They should be connected to the bottom of the mat. fees. All connectors, as well as wires, are labeled. Therefore, if you are careful, it will not be difficult to place everything correctly.

Now close the side cover of the case and connect a monitor, mouse and keyboard to it. Everything is ready, you can start installing the operating system.

This concludes our step-by-step computer assembly.